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There's a reason why the logo is a meditating cartoon cow: Sacred Chow serves serious vegan cuisine without taking itself too seriously. Chef and owner Cliff Preefer, a former Legal Aid lawyer, founded Sacred Chow in 1995 as a take-out store on Hudson St. His new venture on Sullivan St. is his first restaurant. The snug space has red- and mustard-colored walls accented with Middle Eastern antiques, like glass-bejeweled hanging lamps and a mosaic-inlaid fountain. Using organic and kosher-certified ingredients, Preefer conjures up an enticing meatless array of tapas, salads, and sandwiches. For starters, try the impossibly light and silky hummus, redolent with garlic and tangy with lemon juice; a different version is served daily. Chewy soba noodles are dressed in a spicy peanut sauce and enlivened with crunchy cabbage strips and, surprisingly, slices of crystallized ginger. Salads are fresh, substantial, and lively. The Sacred Caesar is a credible rendition of the cheese-draped, crouton-studded classic, its dressing derived from a blend of soft tofu and soy sauce. Sandwiches are engaging, like Mama's soy meatball sub with soy protein orbs flavored with oregano, thyme, and garlic in a spicy rosemary-infused tomato sauce. Triple chocolate brownies may be gluten-free, but manage to be resplendent in rich, bittersweet chocolate. — Michael Anstendig

Sliced ginger soba noodles with spicy peanut sauce, $5.25; hummus, $5.50; sacred Caesar salad, $8.50; Mama's soy meatball sub, $9.75